Paneling in wood is a relatively a simple way of producing a
distinctive wall treatment that needs minimum care and, as initial
construction, saves the total cost of plastering. Factory-finished or
semi-finished plywood panels are available in a large sort of veneers and
treatments. A well-stocked lumberyard could have 48 styles ranging from cherry
to Philippine mahogany, from plain pine to rare hardwoods.
If you prefer applying solid wood, stock is available in
regular or random widths, having factory-made tongue and groove, beveled
sidings, or shiplap edges. The material you'll need can be judged by measuring
the wall area, minus the space for doors and large windows, and then adding 5
per cent. Lumber must be kiln-dried and left in the area where it should be
used for several days to match the moisture content in lumber and room. To give
maximum surface exposure for this drying or damping, narrow strips must be laid
between the boards, making a sticker pile. Stock that hasn't been moisture-conditioned
should be sealed on backs and edges to avoid substantial warping.
Random-length boards are generally sold to equal 8-foot
lengths and must be kept together. Panels should be arranged having flashiest
grain in center, or in some other logical order.
After the stock is set up, the steps in paneling are quite
simple.
1. Basement walls or other areas subject to dampness must be
covered using tar paper. All walls covered had better be moisture-proof.
2. Over a finished plaster wall, find the studs (they are 16
or 24 inches apart), mark them, and secure furring strips (1-by-2-inch or
1-by-3-inch furring, using 8d nails), leaving 1 to 2 inches of space at the top
and bottom in order that the panels overlap.
3. Remove all hardware that are sticking out and electrical
receptacles and cut spaces (a bit smaller) in panels to grant proper exposure.
4. Beginning from the left corner, nail boards or panels
(using 4d nails), first tacking each board or panel, then completing with nails
6 inches apart. Tongue-and-groove boards are nailed at an angle; rabbeted
boards are nailed square in, in as much as the heads are overlaid by the
following board. Panels are nailed at grain angles or in serrations.
5. Where the wall area is irregular, shape edges
accordingly.
6. Measure, cut, fit, and attach casings and jambs for
projections, doors, closets, built-ins, and the like.
7. Round edges and shape arises.
8. Nail strips on the base of the wall to bear the bottom of
the baseboard an inch off the floor.
9. Cut and nail the baseboard, working from left to right.
Leave 1/4 inch at the bottom over hardwood floors. Mitre the ends at every
joining and at corners. For tile floors, a plastic base cove can be utilized.
10. Apply appropriate molding at ceiling, corners, and
casings.
11. Countersink all nails and hide them with plastic wood.
Remove excess. Finish panels as desired
By Tip Writer